Loewe's Third Show Under McCollough and Hernandez Turns New England Prep Into a Wardrobe

Loewe's Spring 2027 show, on Friday, October 2 at the Château de Vincennes in Paris, was the third by creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, and it was the one where they stopped performing. WWD notes that the house is marking its 180th anniversary this year and that Jonathan Anderson, under whom Loewe expanded rapidly, now runs Dior. W describes the pair's first two seasons as visual overload, with heavy layering and inflatable outerwear. This one was calmer.

The house framed it as a question in its show notes: "How does this new LOEWE language become a wardrobe?" It answered that the collection takes "American archetypes" and centres, softens and twists them. W sees a pared-back take on the offbeat American sportswear that built McCollough and Hernandez's reputation at Proenza Schouler, now filtered through Loewe's craft.

Loewe

The archetype was New England prep. W lists the twists: polos worn the wrong way round, trench coats with collars made from sunglass resin, boat shoes with bright laces, and baseball caps on backwards for women and men alike. WWD noticed the polos and boat shoes too, plus chinos, and thought the cycling caps, tech windbreakers and outdoor colours went a little far. McCollough cited their own identities, their New England youth and a 1990s spirit among the influences.

Craft was the other half, and it was quieter. W singles out leatherwork: lightweight skived-leather jackets and shirt dresses in stripes, short moulded-nappa dresses, and the pair's debut take on the Puzzle bag, a light East-West shape named the Puzzle Charm. Loewe's notes add dimensional bead florals and glass-bead pieces made with Cécile Feilchenfeldt, a finalist for the 2025 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize. WWD thought the striped bead dresses looked like wet beach towels, and noticed trousers and pencil skirts opened wide at the hip, the way a half-removed wetsuit hangs.

Loewe

Loewe's history got a nod too. WWD reports the designers pointed out that the house, founded as a leather workshop, made its first garment only in 1960, a suede blazer, and brought it back. The same review also picks out a leather blouson cinched with a heavy belt and a long caramel suede coat that could pass for a dress.

The set was a round, two-level theatre of white scaffolding draped in sheer fabric, designed with Casper Mueller Kneer Architects, who per Loewe took arenas, stadiums and theatres as their reference. W adds Shakespeare's Globe and La Scala. WWD's verdict was friendly but cautious: it hopes the pair's discoveries will gel by next season.