Michael Rider Seated Celine's Guests Under a Thatched Roof and Quoted 'Paris Is Burning' on Their Badges

Celine showed its Spring 2027 collection on Saturday morning, October 3, the first day of the final weekend of Paris Fashion Week. It was Michael Rider's fifth runway show at the house, and he staged it in a white-walled hut with a thatched roof built inside the grounds of the Musée des Archives Nationales, per Dazed. WWD describes guests on tightly crowded benches in a leafy museum courtyard.

The show began with sound rather than clothes. Dazed reports that the voice of Dorian Corey, the performer from the 1990 documentary Paris Is Burning, filled the space, talking about wanting to leave a mark on the world. WWD adds that every seat carried a badge worded like a political slogan: "If you shoot an arrow and it goes real high… Hooray for you." The line is Corey's, from the film. WWD says Rider told the press the moment felt relevant to now, without spelling out why.

The clothes were quieter than the reference. Dazed says the opening looks were black silk, set to Erykah Badu's "I'll Call U Back," and that the collection read as simple from a distance, with the quirks showing up close: wafer-thin ties, black headbands on male models, John Lennon-style sunglasses, and dust coats thrown over shoulders as if lent by a boyfriend.

Celine

Accessories carried the scale. Dazed counts belt buckles as big as skirts, gold hoops down to the shoulders and hats pulled low over the eyes. WWD points to a shoelace-thin belt on a full dressmaker coat and a silver bangle the size of a cantaloupe on a slim gown. Its palette was crisp satin-finish fabrics in black and midnight blue, with each outfit knocked slightly off formal by one thing: a scuffed sneaker, an offbeat headband, bandana-print harem trousers, or a graphic concert tee under a white satin pantsuit.

Celine

WWD's reading is that the collection kept flirting with austerity on one side and bohemian dressing on the other, never settling on either, much as Rider's June menswear show did. Backstage, it says, he described the appeal of Celine as the tension between a rigorous house and clothes worn spontaneously. That is the through-line of his tenure so far: a house with a long record of polished Parisian dressing, handled by an American designer who treats it as everyday clothing.

The front row was a story of its own. Dazed lists SZA, Tracee Ellis Ross, Lisa Bonet, Hannah Einbinder, Rahim Redcar, Daniel Levy, Ebon Moss-Bachrach and all six members of the K-pop group TWS.