Undercover's Spring 2027 Collection Looks Tidy From the Front, Then Sprouts Wings and Tulle Behind

Jun Takahashi presented Undercover's Spring 2027 collection on Friday, October 2, as a presentation on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. Two reviews, WWD's and Vanity Teen's, read it the same way: the clothes are worn-in and polite from the front, and the surprises are behind.

Vanity Teen calls it "party in the back." Its example is look 26, a brown double-breasted coat, sun-bleached and blotched, with a cluster of badges and a fabric rose on the lapel and polka dots at the cuffs. From behind, it says, a photographic pair of white wings is printed across the shoulder blades. Look 1 starts the idea: a pale yellow jacket with red wings brushed across its back.

Undercover

Faded, patched and half-undressed

WWD describes a lineup of vintage-looking garments with distressed surfaces: a strapless red velvet gown it calls "threadbare as a pair of old theater curtains," a motorcycle jacket that looked dragged through mud and gravel, and a suit jacket with crude, uneven stitching on the lapels. Takahashi also drew on the "Groupie" logo and zip-on components from his spring 1999 "Relief" collection, per WWD, and Vanity Teen sees the script on a red satin baseball jacket rubbed down to a ghost.

Both reviewers single out the back views. WWD lists a tailored green jacket sliced open at the back with a sweep of cream tulle and flowers, jackets with loose feathers and wing shapes, and detachable tulle bustles on jeans and trousers. Vanity Teen points to draping: a field jacket with a grey satin cowl that trails behind over a mustard velvet back, and a blush satin suit that drops its whole back into a deep drape.

The details are small and specific. WWD notes lapels dotted with cloth-covered flowers and pins reading "The whole universe is completely insane!" Vanity Teen counts polka dots recurring in linings, cargo trousers and a scarf, and a pink bomber with a skull and bow stitched so faintly into its back that you only find it by walking behind.

The two end differently. Vanity Teen describes a strange, padded finale, a strapless red velvet gown carrying pale grey padded forms wrapped in tulle, with a green twin rotted into holes at the hem. WWD's closing note is about the clothes' lack of polish: it says the clothes still had personality, and jokes about "new vintage."

Undercover's own collection page for the season shows the looks, including backs for some, so the front-and-back idea can be checked against the house's photos rather than only the reviews.