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Fashion

The Collab Era Isn't Over. It Just Got Weirder.

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Key details

Collaboration
Supreme x MM6 Maison Margiela, first Box Logo zip hoodie
Also featured
NIGO's Air Force 1 "LO2"; Swatch's new hype-watch round
Rankings
Complex 2026 top five: Kith, Supreme, Cactus Jack, Pharrell, Fear of God
💬

Every few seasons someone declares collaboration fatigue, and every few seasons the biggest releases of the year turn out to be collaborations. 2026 hasn't broken the pattern so much as scrambled it.

The clearest example is Supreme working with MM6 Maison Margiela on the first Box Logo zip hoodie in the mark's history. Supreme has spent thirty years being extremely disciplined about what the Box Logo is allowed to sit on. Handing that discipline to Margiela's diffusion line — a house whose entire identity is deconstruction — is a genuinely odd pairing, and that oddness is the point.

Elsewhere, NIGO returned to the Air Force 1 with the "LO2," and Swatch followed its Audemars Piguet collaboration with another round of hype watches. None of these are the safe brand-adjacent pairings that defined the last cycle. They're crossings between houses that shouldn't obviously fit.

The power rankings tell a related story. Complex's 2026 edition put Kith's Ronnie Fieg, Supreme's James Jebbia, Travis Scott's Cactus Jack, Pharrell and Fear of God's Jerry Lorenzo in the top five — operators as much as brands, with Stüssy and Aimé Leon Dore, the two labels most tied to the collab boom itself, sitting just outside it at six and seven. Power right now tracks who's actually running the show, not just whose name is on the box.

The takeaway for anyone building in this space: the collaboration itself no longer generates heat. The friction between the two names does.

Correction: An earlier version of this story said Complex's 2026 power ranking put Stüssy, Supreme, Kith, Corteiz and Aimé Leon Dore in the top five. The real top five are Kith, Supreme, Travis Scott's Cactus Jack, Pharrell and Fear of God; Stüssy and Aimé Leon Dore rank sixth and seventh, and Corteiz isn't in the top ten.

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