Aitor Throup Opens Ultra Veil in London, His First New Body of Fashion Work in a Decade

Aitor Throup has opened Ultra Veil, an exhibition the University of Westminster calls his first new body of conceptual fashion work in a decade. It runs at Ambika P3, the university's exhibition space on Marylebone Road in London, from October 30 to November 8, 11am to 7pm, and entry is free. The Westminster Menswear Archive presents it, with support from Fred Perry.

It's more than 100 objects: clothing prototypes, sculptures and drawings, shown at every stage from drawing and experiment through to prototype and the first products. Throup's own post from the opening shows jackets hung in open metal frames under spotlights, a wall of black skulls and full figures suspended mid-air, all shot in black and white.

Aitor Throup Studio, photographed by @chazzadnitt

What's in it

Throup told Vogue the prototypes are built from women's lingerie mesh, which he then coated by hand, on the body, in a glitter rubber of his own making. Vogue reports that the 70 or so prototype garments are to be sold like artworks, and counts 100 skull sculptures in the show. His signatures are all there: hoods and hats with masks built in, gloves built into sleeves, and trousers whose foot covers make them read as legs.

Aitor Throup Studio, photographed by @chazzadnitt

The read

Throup is a designer other designers watch: C.P. Company hired him, he has reworked its goggle jacket, and he has made projects with Umbro and Maharishi, while mostly paying his way, Vogue reports, through consultancy in music and fashion. Ultra Veil is the clearest sign yet that he wants his own business. The university's page says the show lays out the thinking behind Aitor Ultra, his own line, and Vogue reports a Fred Perry collaboration is next, in 2027.

WWD reported in September that the ready-to-wear rollout under Aitor Ultra comes next year. What nobody has said yet is when exactly, what it will cost or where it will sell, or what the Fred Perry pieces will be. For now, London gets ten days to see the work up close.

Aitor Throup Studio, photographed by @chazzadnitt